Jun 30, 2011

Sew Puffed Frill onto Back of Cardigan

I used a regular cardigan from UNI QLO that I bought in the sale for just £9.00
But you can 'Upstyle' any old cardigan that you no longer wear.
1. Cut 8ins up the side seams or to where you want the Puffed Frill to stop.
Allowing half an inch for the seam allowance, cut straight across back.
2. Do notches for the darts. I did mine 3inches from side seam, 1inch apart.
Fold fabric so notches line up and keeping it straight stitch a line from the edge at an angle to the fold, about 4inches as seen in photo.
Should look like this. Press darts towards side seams.
3. Get the piece you cut out the back, and cut off the ribbing allowing 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Put right sides together onto cardigan and sew along edge of ribbing.
Then once you have pressed it it should look like this.
In another tutorial I will show how you can get this effect with a cardigan, long at front and short at back. You can't do it with this one, as you need to start it differently.
4. Fold over some silk, 2 - 3 times the width of the back of the cardigan. (ie. going across back of the waist of cardigan in Fig 1)  Mine was 12inches wide, so I cut my strip of fabric 36inches long.
Then whatever the length was in Fig 1 (mine was 8inches) add 1inch for seam allowance, so I cut it 9inches from the fold.
So as to keep the ends tidy, put right sides together and stitch ends.
Then turn right way round and press flat.
5. Then you need to gather this.
Using the biggest stitch on your sewing machine, stitch a straight line along the edge, not the fold.
Don't begin and end with going back and forwards as you need to pull the threads to gather.
Just pull bottom thread to gather fabric and gently ease along till it roughly fits the back of the waist.
Once you are happy with the size, put right sides together and stitch along the same line as when you attached ribbing.
It should look like this.
6. Now you need to stitch up side seams, make sure you catch the ribbing in as you sew and check as you sew that the cardigan and the silk finish the same length.
I often hold things together with 'Bond- a -Web' 1st, but you must cut it to only 1mm so it's not too thick and press into place.
Never underestimate pressing.
You need to stretch the ribbing as you press the back waist.
Also you must stretch out the ribbing along the hem at the front, gradually stretching up to waist. This is so the cardigan does not pull.
This really does create a glamorous look to a plain cardigan.